Fashion industry tackles wrong challenge in circular design

Supply chain infrastructure key to recyclability

Atkin's presentation challenged the prevailing belief that designing recyclable products is primarily about fabric composition and material selection. He pointed out that producing garments from recycled fibers requires fundamentally different factory environments and specialized machinery. These operational changes necessitate extensive testing over several years to meet consistent quality and efficiency benchmarks.

The common emphasis on garment composition, though important, shifts focus away from the needed infrastructure investments for processing recycled materials on a large scale. Fashion brands may advocate for mono-material designs, but unless factories are equipped to work with recycled fibers, these garments will remain conceptual rather than commercially viable.

Extensive testing bridges design and production

"The fashion industry has been concentrating on the less critical aspect," stated Thijmen de Vries, spokesperson for Fibre to Fibre. "Designers may invest months in developing recyclable compositions, but manufacturers require years to modify their production lines. The cycle of textile waste cannot be completed without establishing the necessary infrastructure for the efficient processing of recycled materials."

Closing the gap between vision and capability

Fibre to Fibre directly tackles the infrastructure issue by controlling the entire value chain, from textile waste collection to yarn production. This cohesive strategy avoids the compatibility problems that typically occur when recycled materials are introduced into conventional supply chains meant for new fibers.

The company's operations in the Netherlands prove that competitive pricing for circular textiles is feasible once the supply chain is modified for recycled inputs. By offering prices comparable to organic cotton and recycled polyester, Fibre to Fibre eliminates the financial obstacles that have justified the ongoing use of new materials.